Bali is many things, central though to understanding the wonderful, fetid mash-up of polar opposites that Bali represents, is the sight of a young Balinese boy or girl having parked their Honda Vario motorcycle at the roadside, head buried in concentration as they commune with their thumbs to their Microwave Deity. Mobile phones and motorcycles coexisting alongside ancient rituals of prayer and daily offerings to Hindu gods. White and black checkered cloth is draped over all the Balinese statues.....why? When asked, the response is, "The white and black pattern represent balance." Balance and harmony are precious commodities in Bali. The island is experiencing rapid, unregulated growth. Residences magically appearing in the middle of rice fields, international hotels being built with no thought of the consequences to a fragile environment and collapsed aging infrastructure. Remarkably the Balinese people are transcendant in the face of such sea change. They remain warm, open, friendly, inquisitive, generous and happy. The new gods, the Microwave gods of communication are most assuredly embedded in Balinese culture now.